Cape Town: Take 3

This past week I had the most important experience as of yet since my time in South Africa started about a month ago. It was a field trip I took with my Sustainability and the Environment class.We were told we were going to Hout Bay, a local coastal community about a half hour drive from campus. I had no clue however that we would be going on a tour of the township Imizamo Yethu, which our guide Kenny told us means Our Struggle in Xhosa. For those of you who have not read my first post, townships are essentially shanty towns of informal homes and shacks. Cape Town is home to several townships, most of which are home to tens of thousands of people.

Kenny, who has lived in Imizamo Yethu for 25 years, now working full time as a community development worker, told us many statistics and facts about the township. First off, roughly 25000 people live in IY. There are 4000 families. Essentially, IY was established by black residents of Hout Bay who, under the laws of Apartheid, and due to financial constraints, could not buy and own property in suburban Hout Bay. So this now 18 hectare, or roughly 45 acre township was constructed in 1989 when the local government had to intervene and do something about the rising tensions between scattered squatter families and local white residents. Kenny said the land that IY was built on was originally a landfill. He informed us that 80% of the residents share water sources for sanitation and sewage. He also told us that the Disa River runs right through the settlement and has one of the highest E-coli concentrations ever recorded in South Africa, making the need for clean water of the utmost importance. Thankfully, IY has in recent years started to be revitalized through the efforts of international development aid and more specifically the efforts of Irish business man Niall Mellon. In the last few years over 300 permanent brick houses have been built, yet only 20% of the families in IY live in these homes. 70% of IY has access to electricity; however, the 30% who struggle to gain access often do so by using a very dangerous system of what Kenny called spaghetti wires, that stretch for hundreds of yards over the shacks, and often start fires that regularly burn down people’s homes throughout the community. In fact, just one day before we arrived ten homes were burned down as a direct result of these poorly constructed electrical lines. Naturally, IY has not escaped the HIV/AIDS epidemic. Sadly, Kenny believes that the number of people with HIV/AIDS living in IY could be well over 35%, noting that only 900 people are actually in the system and receiving the Antiretroviral drug used to treat the disease. The national average for HIV/AIDS is somewhere around 30% making IY an extreme microcosm of the problem. Many of the buildings we went into had posters urging people to be brave enough to know their HIV status. It was striking to see just how big a role the HIV and AIDS epidemic plays in everyone’s life in IY. One is reminded of the situation around every corner. One of the other major struggles for the community of IY is the problem of overcrowding. Expanding the property for IY is a huge struggle because all of the surrounding land is privately owned, and much of it is protected national park. If IY continues to grow in population without expanding access to more land than IY will be invariably overcrowded. So many of the informal dwellings seem so unbelievably small, and they literally are back to back to back. Walking along the streets you can see little corridors running between all of these cramped shacks. It was truly shocking to see just how many people seem to be living right on top of one another. In addition to the problem of crime, disease, and drug and alcohol abuse (IY is home to 63 pubs), unemployment is high on the list of concerns for Kenny and the locals. According to Kenny, Cape Town only employs people who are in the employment database, but most residents of IY, who lack access to sufficient education and do not have an official employment history, are not in the database. Despite all of these struggles that me and my classmates learned about on this day, it was clear that there is a tremendous spirit of hope in the community. The community center Iziko Lobomi, Xhosa for Center of Life, was recently built and is used daily as a place where local officials can go to discuss and attempt to address the community’s problems. Imizamo Yethu also seems to be growing into a very proud community that has in so many ways embraced their struggles in a sense of oneness, determined to make the community a place that people can soon call home, in a permanent sense of the word. The streets are filled with smiling children running around, playing, and laughing with one another. Members of the community clearly care for one another and most everywhere we went we were greeted with a sense of hospitality and friendliness. Entrepreneurs abound, and almost every street has convenience stores or Spasas where people can find many things they might need for daily life. Many people, especially Kenny, were so eager to give us a snapshot into the lives of the Imizamo Yethu community. This sense of hope echoes throughout IY, and as Nelson Mandela once said, “If you don’t live with Hope, what are you living for?” As Kenny put it, it is a hope that the people of IY can reach their goals of being out of poverty, for the children of IY to one day be out of their current situation, “for the people of Hout Bay to be one, to work together, and equally enjoy god’s creation.” It was comforting to be given a tour of the community after school daycare facility, Ikaya Lethemba, or Home of Hope. Ikaya Lethemba was established to help especially vulnerable youth, and its volunteers help to raise many children. Many of the kids in the program have parents or families who struggle from HIV/AIDS or abuse problems. Most of the schools around the community (less than 5 schools) are overcrowded, and this center offers an opportunity for one on one support and a greater sense of structure. The schools surrounding IY are a great concern and have not really changed with the times if at all since Apartheid. In particular, the schools for the children of IY are black only and reflect no sense of integration. As Kenny put it, “South Africa belongs to all who live in it,” and South Africa will never truly be united until all children receive the same opportunities to learn and grow. Someone once said to me that the educational opportunities I’ve had in my life are something that only 1% of the people in the world have. This humbles me greatly.

While I walked through Imizamo Yethu it was really hard to pin down the feelings that I was experiencing. While I was so happy to be given this learning experience, it was hard to reconcile that I was receiving this snapshot into such extreme poverty with the knowledge that in just a couple hours I would be back on the air conditioned, luxury tour bus that brought me to IY. To know that I would be back in my million dollar home in Rondebosch in just a couple hours. To know that I would drink clean water and take a warm shower and never struggle to eat a full meal whenever I wanted. To know that my whole life I have been in a completely safe environment, surrounded by structure and opportunity. To know that so much of my time here will be spent experiencing things that many of these people will never have the opportunity to do, simply because I was born into a different reality. Little kids would run up to all of us yelling jubilantly “Mlungu! Mlungu!,”  which in Xhosa means “White people! White people!” Some would even run up and touch us just to touch a white person. But than some older people would look at us and with what I could only register as disdain in the tone of their voice and in the look in their eyes say “Mlungu.” From IY you can look to the hills across the valley and see mansions. You can drive two minutes down the road to five star restaurants, with BMW’s and Mercedes Benz’ filling the parking lots. The inequality is shoved right down your throat and so blatantly evident for the people of IY. I can’t help but ask myself, how can a heart be filled with anything but hatred and animosity when everything around you makes you feel like you are less of a human being than someone else? And for what reason? Skin color? As happy as I was to see the hope that the people of IY have I was simultaneously being eaten from the inside out walking through the streets of this township knowing that I will never face the struggles that they have and will continue to face. It was obvious that many of the people who have lived here for so long must hate that their home has become some sort of spectacle where privileged people from the developed world can come and see, and take pictures, as if the people of IY are some sort of tourist attraction. Kenny informed me that he gives tours everyday, and that most tours are given not to students or volunteers, but to people on vacation. I was at a loss for words most of the day so I tried to soak up as much as possible. Afterwards, when I had time to reflect on the day, I tried to imagine being the shoes of an IY resident, and as I did this all I could think about was how unbelievably lucky I am. The reason I have said that this experience is the most important I have had so far in South Africa is because it has enabled me to truly understand why people say the words “Smile. Life could be worse.” People say those words all the time but I don’t think people really get it most of the time. We will all face adversity throughout our lives, and sometimes that adversity will feel as if the world is crashing down around us. But at least for me now I truly understand why people have told me and my peers our whole lives that we can do anything we put our minds to. So many amazing people have come from IY, people just like Kenny who have faced the toughest adversity imaginable, and overcome it with gumption and a positive attitude. I guess what I am trying to say is this: I continue, everyday, to gain a greater appreciation for the cards I have been dealt, the friends and family I have, and the experiences I have had and will have in the future. I continue to understand why living each and every moment of my life to the fullest is more than just a catch phrase. To be happy. To constantly be thankful for what I have and show the love that I’m surrounded with to as many people as possible. Compared to most people in the world, we’ve all been blessed with the greatest set of circumstances anyone could ever ask for. It is thus imperative to wake up every day with a smile on your face and attack each day as Jim Harbaugh says “with an enthusiasm never before seen by the human race!” Being abroad has brought this enthusiasm back into my life in a way I never expected. I’ve decided to start working through the university for Habitat for Humanity. We will be going out to local townships out here in Cape Town and my first build will be taking place here in a couple weeks. I’m fired up.

On a lighter note, there was a huge event called 6 by 7’s on Friday on campus at the rugby field. Don’t know if I was entertained by it, or ashamed to call myself a homosapien. Essentially, it’s a relay race. There are a bunch of teams, all of which are made up of either the bravest or the dumbest guys ever conceived. Before the race starts, each person eats as much crappy food and drinks as much beer as physically possible. Then they also drink an entire bottle of food coloring between the team. Then, the race starts. At which point, the teams will run quarter mile laps around the track surrounding the cricket field. After each lap each member of the team has to drink a beer. This continues for seven laps. What I haven’t told you yet is the point of the race. Well it turns out it really ended up not being much of a race as much as it was a chunder-fest, or what us Americans would call a puke-fest, or vomit-fest, or up-chuck-fest. The food coloring is your team color and the goal is to cover as many men as possible on opposing teams with your color. So yea, a few thousand UCT students and I watched as about a hundred drunk idiots covered each other in puke. How this became an official event I will never know, but I did find myself laughing until my stomach hurt. And then I cried a little. It was really confusing.

Wednesday nights are now officially Stones Brewery night in Observatory. It just so happens that everyone and their brother goes to this place every Wednesday. Everyone I know is usually there. It’s one of the most fun bars I’ve ever been to and I’m finally getting pretty nice at pool. Met a really cool Zimbabwean guy named Comfort who works at the local internet café I’ve been going to. We talked for a while today, became friends and we’re meeting there this Wednesday for a beer and a game of pool. Went surfing at Muizenberg again yesterday and tried using a smaller board. Got my ass kicked most of the day. But got up twice. Almost drowned once. My buddy got stung by a jelly fish but the shark in the water flag didn’t go up at all! What a day! My hair color keeps getting lighter as my skin keeps getting darker. This sun does weird things to people but the beach is too irresistible. Then we went to the Cape Town Stormers v. Wellington, New Zealand Hurricanes professional rugby game just five minutes away from my house in Newlands. Cape Town of course won because we are the shit, or the sheisse as my German friends would say. The game was out of control. It was good to be back in a professional sports stadium surrounded by fifty thousand nutty rugby fans. And afterwards we all went to a sports bar called Springboks just down the road, which I swear everyone in the stadium must have went to. The place is massive and it was completely packed. Thursday night seems to have become the night for clubbing in Claremont. And I just recently bought some real nice little button up collared shirts. Not gonna lie I clean up pretty nicely. Look forward to some pics of me looking like a studly gentleman in my new shirts on FB here pretty soon. Oh yea, and on Thursday before going out I went to this thing called Jabooly (not sure about the spelling) where people basically get shitfaced and play water polo. I liked seeing water polo again. Brings me back to freshman year of high school. Once again I can’t tell you how much I enjoy doing little solo day trips by myself to have some exploring time. I went to this market in downtown called Green Market Square Friday afternoon before the 6 by 7’s debacle, and just walked around and talked to venders. Green Market Square is pretty close to Long Street and is basically a huge market for street venders that sell all sorts of African art, clothing, and trinkets of various kinds. I met this guy from Mozambique (his name escapes me at the moment) who was selling these incredibly cool pique material t-shirts and just talked with him at his little street shop for like a half hour about the environment and each other’s lives. I couldn’t believe him when he told me about his father’s six wives and his 15 or so siblings. He definitely comes from a very different world than me but he seemed to enjoy my company very much. He had a very enlightening perspective on the environmental problems I am studying, most notably the exploitation of African resources that have so often only benefitted economies of the developed world. He’s gonna make me a special shirt because he didn’t have the one I wanted in a crew neck so I will be seeing him again in about a week to go pick it up. I look forward to another great conversation. Tomorrow I’m having lunch with Ida Cooper. Just the two of us. Not that often I have lunch dates with little old ladies so it should be real nice!

Anyway, that’s all for now! To all my family and friends, I love and miss you with every fiber in my body!

Peace, Love, and Music!

Patty O’Malley Mason McWilliams 

Africa Patty: Blog Post #2

Ok! Here goes blog entry number 2!

So the last time I left off about two weekends ago. And since then so much has happened. So once again this is gonna be one long post. But whatever. Let’s do it.

Let me start by saying that school has finally started after what I can only describe as the greatest two month Xmas vacation I’ve ever had. So life is becoming somewhat normal again. But not really. Not really at all actually. Huh.

So the last time I left off on Friday the 3^rd of February. That night all of Ida Cooper’s internationals went to the VA Waterfront. Which is relatively close to downtown. This funky little area is yet another awesome place to go for a night out. Situated right on the water, it is littered with shops and restaurants of all types of cuisines and prices. Probably the best part about the waterfront is the way it looks at night. When you take into account the massive ferris wheel, all the bright neon lights, the local bands playing in the amphitheater, the thousands of people walking around, the moon glistening off the water surrounded the marina, and the backdrop of Table Mountain in the distance, it might just be one of the coolest sights you can see at night. Maybe a meteor shower could make it better. Who knows. Anyway, we all split up into smaller groups for our meals and I decided to go with some friends to a very up-scale Italian restaurant called Meloncino’s. Well up scale as far as I’m concerned. Next time I go the waterfront I’m going to definitely going to the Ferryman’s Tavern instead. Because supposedly they’ve got lots of nice beers.

After the waterfront we went as a group to Long Street in Downtown. Long Street as you  might have guessed is the longest street in downtown and is by far the best place to head for a night out if you are looking for options. I went to three different bars this night. Started at a place called The Neighborhood which was probably the homiest bar I’ve ever seen. I didn’t know they made bars where everywhere you sit is a couch or loveseat. After this we went to a place called Abantu. Which is essentially a whole in the wall that has extremely cheap drinks. It was recommended to us by Anne. Who like I said in my last post is one of Ida Cooper’s associates who helps out my house on Lyle road with any inquiries we might have about life in Cape Town. However, she’s pretty much one of the crew. Not at all a house mom like I stated in my last post. Anyway, Abantu was quite a funny bar. Mostly for its drink and shooter selection. My favorite shooter was called a Creamy Pussy. I had about ten of them at R5 each. Lol. After Abantu me and Anne went to get down at a night club called JoBerg. Which was my favorite place because all the music that was played was bumpin ass hip hop. Nuff said.

The next day was the day we had all been waiting for. Dinner at Ida Cooper’s pad!!! The lot of us went that Saturday to Ida’s house for an amazing dinner.  Ida has to be one of the hippest ladies I’ve ever met. We get there, she’s got live music playing, pita bread and hummus, and because she knows her babies (as she calls us) so well, she’s got tubs of Sangria for everyone and coolers full of beer for the guys. Needless to say this was a great night. And worth the wait. Best home cooked meal I’ve had in a long while.

In my last post I talked about how in SA they don’t have barbecues, they have braais. Braais are a very common thing over here. And I was very anxious to host one for all my new friends. So Super Bowl Sunday seemed like a hell of a day to have one.  After shaking off my hang over from the drum and bass night club Mercury a bunch of us went to after Ida’s dinner the night before, I headed into town with 800 Rand in my pocket and bought up as much meat and beer as I could while my house mates cooked up some tasty little side dishes. I had to get the beer at that same dodgy little liquor store I went to with a couple of the rugby guys a few days earlier because liquor stores are closed on Sundays.  I then texted a ton of my new friends and told them to get ready for a braai for the ages. Potluck style. Many of you do not know the Schuster family. But they are some of the greatest people you could ever meet and have been my loving neighbors for about 15 years. Anyway Johnny and Lisa Schuster, the parents of two of my best friends and brothers Justin and Jared, have over the years thrown some of the best bbq parties I have ever experienced. So they were my inspiration for hosting a kick ass braai. The Super Bowl Sunday braai at 9A Lyle Road was an absolute success and I can’t tell you how happy I was to tend the grill for hours and provide succulent meat for my new friends just like the one and only Johnny Schuster has done so many times for all my family and friends back in Auburn! After a nice two hour nap, I woke up and headed right down Main Road to the local friendly Pig and Swizzle bar to watch the Super Bowl. It started after midnight and didn’t end till after 5 in the morning. The American spirit reverberated throughout the bar and into the streets that night. The predominantly local guests of Pig and Swizzle must have got a kick out all of us belting the national anthem that night. Most definitely the most epic anthem I’ve ever been a part of. I could have fallen asleep standing up by the end of the game but it was well worth it to be see skeezy Bill Belichick, that punk rock bitch Tom Brady, and his cronies once again screw the pooch in this year’s Super Bowl.   

After recovering from our shit show Super Bowl party the night/morning before a bunch of us went to Clifton Beach. Camps Bay Beach and Clifton Beach are two of the most popular beaches in Cape Town and are situated on the exact opposite side of Table Mountain from my house. When I first got to Cape Town I was told that Clifton and Camps Bay are where people go to be seen and this is clearly evident when you arrive and see just how many beautiful people go to these beaches. Its real nice. Clifton is especially sweet because there is an amazing jump rock life 30 yards off the beach that is perfect for James Bond swan dives and front flips and all sorts of crazy stuff. And it’s not uncommon to see people playing little pick-up games of beach rugby up and down the beach. I had a blast playing one with the fellas on the rugby team and some very talented girls on this day, which was my first ever at Clifton. As far as I’m concerned, Clifton is exactly what one thinks of when picturing a perfect beach. Beautiful people, beautiful beach, and surrounded by the 12 Apostles mountain range that runs down the cost to Cape Point. The only bad thing I can say about these beaches is temperature of the water which can literally be chilling to the bone and definitely brings about some serious shrinkage. After spending the entire day at the beach me and a bunch of friends went to a kick ass foam party at Kopano residence hall where I stayed my first couple nights before I moved into my permanent house. I’d never been to a foam party until this night and let’s just say it’s one slippery, soap, crazy experience. The whole time I couldn’t stop thinking about how there was no way in hell something like that could go down in a residence hall back in Berkeley. I made sure to soak up the entire experience.

The rugby season has started up recently and all I can say is the games are a blast. There is a lot of Ikey Tiger Spirit around here and the sidelines surely the place to be whenever there is a home game. During the first home game a ball was kicked by one of the players in the game what seemed like a mile high, and as it flew through the air it just kept getting closer and closer to where I was sitting until I realized this thing was coming down right on top of me. So like a little kid at a baseball game I stuck out my arms and with one free hand and my other hand covered by a giant #1 Fan foam hand snagged this rugby ball out of the air. I was in disbelief. It was exhilarating and everyone around me was cheering for me. I felt like a star. It was hilarious. Most of you could probably care less about this but it was a big deal for me so BACK OFF! Anyway, yea. The rugby games are sweet.

Side Story: So we don’t have a dryer in my house and I don’t really like hanging up my cloths to dry so I go to this little laundry place down the street called Laundry Lady. And the ladies that work in there are total characters. So like the third time I go in to have them dry my stuff the older lady that works there gives me the same goofy smile she always gives me but then all of a sudden starts flirting with me. She’s like “you are so cute! But I’m old enough to be your mom. Guess how old I am?” I guessed, “25?” She laughed and whispered 50 in my ear than asks me for a hug. So I give her a hug. And then the younger girl working there who’s probably in her late twenties goes, “Well I think he’s cute too! I want one!” To the dismay of the older lady I gave her a hug too and the older lady goes “Damn you, you steal all my boyfriends!” I was in stitches to say the least. Side story over.   

So full moons are a pretty big deal out here in Cape Town because there are a number of amazing places to hike at night to really get the FULL full moon experience. So the first full moon night all of us internationals went to hike up Lions Head which is relatively close to Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak, two of the more well-known mountains around here. The majority of the hike is fairly easy until you get about two thirds of the way to the top, at which point the trail changes from a nice normal dirt trail to successions of jagged rocks and boulders you have to scramble up (as rock climbers would say) to get to the top. It’s not the most difficult hike but can definitely be pretty dodgy, especially once darkness falls and you have to navigate back down. But thankfully this night there was a full moon so the way was fairly lit up. Now this was highly debated during the course of the night but I swear that there had to be at least a thousand people climbing Lion’s Head that night. Not surprisingly either because the view of the sun setting over the ocean followed by the rising full moon, juxtaposed with the brilliant array of mountains surrounding the area is truly breathtaking. This was by far the greatest full moon night I’ve ever experienced and was truly blessed to have spent it with such an amazing group of new friends.

Another thing about full moons is that they bring some gargantuan waves to the beaches surrounding Cape Town. So the next day when a few of us went to Camps Bay Beach near Clifton, I was rudely introduced to the power of these waves when tried to go body surfing. Note to self: if waves are crashing directly onto the beach, do not try and body surf them because they will only turn your world completely upside down and leave you with your head buried in the sand. Thankfully I was able sit down and enjoy a plate of super bomb fish and chips and a Slow Comfortable Screw (which is a cocktail) at one of the local beach restaurants lining the streets of Camps Bay after the debacle that just took place. A great way to wind down before preparing for one of the greatest road trips I’ve ever been on.

The Garden Route is well known amongst South Africans. Running along the east coast of South Africa from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth in the Eastern Cape Province, the Garden Route is chalk full of amazing sights, activities, and attractions for people wanting to experience more of the Rainbow Country culture. Some of these activities include sky diving, seeing all kinds of wild animals, zip lining tours, all kinds of beach sports like kite boarding, and surfing, and even shark cage diving. Since I have already been sky diving twice, been zip lining when I was younger, plan on doing other safaris in Northern South Africa at Kruger and/or up in Botswana/Zambia/Zimbabwe, plan on shark cage diving later in the semester when more sharks are out and about, and have recently joined the Yacht Club here on campus that teaches its interested members how to Kite surf, I opted for some other activities. Thankfully our rubber tramping crew, most of whom are in the Lovers Walk house, were a joy to try and plan the trip with, which we did all by ourselves without the help of local travel agencies. Honestly we winged most of it but everything worked out great over the course of those four days along the Garden Route. The first thing you have to know about traveling along the Garden Route is that if you aren’t staying at the Backpackers (i.e. hostels) along the way, you aren’t doing it right. For like 15 bucks a night you can stay in these sweet ass backpackers that are always full of internationals, and equipped with a fully stocked bar. Our first backpackers was Backpackers Paradise located in Outdshoorn, and that night about twenty of us internationals from a couple different houses back in CT all met up there. We of course had a nice little shindig. Outdshoorn is most famous for its plethora of Ostrich meat and the Cango Caves. Now I’ve been in some caves in my life but nothing like these prehistoric gems and seem to virtually go on forever. As a group we took an adventurous tour deep into the heart of these caves. I put some pictures up on FB for anyone reading this who wants to see. Seriously though, no picture can truly show how incredibly huge and intricate these caves were. The first people that used to live in the caves were said to have never ventured further than the first couple parts of the caves because they believed that the deepest dwellings were inhabited by the spirits of their ancestors. But we had no problem disturbing their ancestors because these caves were way too cool not to explore. After exploring the caves our crew headed out for a beach town called Wwilderness. On the way we saw numerous baboons walking around on the sides of the road which literally made me jump out of my seat in jubilant celebration. Seriously I went nuts. God I love animals. One troop of baboons had a bunch of baby baboons too. It was the cutest thing ever! But unfortunately we were driving past too fast and they scattered too quickly for me to snap a shot. However, baboons are everywhere in South Africa so I’m sure I’ll get some good pictures eventually. Once we got to Wilderness we all rented canoes and paddled down the local Touw River through a crazy little jungle to a path that we hiked to the Touw River Waterfall. The water surrounding the water fall is so tannin-rich (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tannin) that it has an almost blackish-orange look to it. I’ve never seen such oddly colored water in my life but there was no way I wasn’t gonna swim around in it. There were even some sweet little jump rocks/cliffs from which to kloof from. This little adventure was a blast and it was nice to finally be deep in a random jungle in Africa. It was no Congo jungle, but it was still pretty damn cool. After this we all met up again at another backpackers in Plettenberg Bay and then headed out for a night of clubbing. The next day was the day we had all been anticipating since we left Cape Town. The day that we would all bungee jump from the highest bridge bungee jump in the entire world. A 216 meter drop from Bloukraans Bridge just outside of Plettenberg Bay. Everyone in my crew made the jump. The feeling of free fall is one of the most ridiculous feelings ever. You can see it on everyone’s face the second they are back on the bridge. It is such an insane rush of adrenaline and I recommend that everyone at some point in their life face their fear and let this natural high consume yourself. It is the most epic thing ever. AAAAHHHH! So fun. And the bump of the electronic/dub steppy/ house music that was playing on the bridge was a big help too. Its one of those things that you do and it happens so fast, you’re in the car leaving the bridge, looking at baboons walking on the side of the road, and in your head your thinking “What in the F$#@ did I just do?! Did that really just happen?!” What an unbelievable experience. After the jump we went to another beach town called Knysna where we went to the waterfront, had some lunch and some beers. Knysna supposedly is home to the oldest Rastafarian village in Africa but we heard it was too hard to find so we just went to the waterfront. The waterfront was a great little place to go to wind down after our bungee jump. It actually reminded me of the VA Waterfront in Cape Town I talked about earlier. After lunch we went to the best backpackers on the entire trip for our last night, Afrovibe! Afrovibe is situated right on the beach in a town called Sedgefield and is run by one of the chilliest groups of SA locals I’ve met so far. Afrovibe is the epitome of hippy surfer culture. A very green backpackers. I had the best time by far at this backpackers. The party was top notch, and even had a Beer Pong South Africa table set up. I’m pretty sure I also fell in love that night with a fire balling twirling supermodel named Gabriella. Hopefully we hang out again when she’s in Cape Town in a couple months. This was the perfect place to end our road trip down the Garden Route.  

In other news. Like I said school has started. I am now signed up for three classes. The first is History of Genocide in Africa, the second is Sustainability and the Environment, and the third is Poverty, Development, and Globalization. I will also start my work in a local township called Kensington this week where I will work for a few hours each Tuesday teaching math, English, and life orientation to groups of kids. I am very excited to go hang out, teach, and learn from these little kids. I also signed up for the Yacht Club which is one of the bigger, more social clubs here on campus that I will learn how to sail, and kite surf with. Apparently they throw some pretty bitching shindigs throughout the semester too. So that should be a great way to meet new people and more local South Africans. The last club I signed up for is the golf club, which will take me to some great little courses in Cape Town. I wanna join a couple more societies as they are called here as well, perhaps Habitat for Humanity. We will see how things go but for now that’s what I’m signed up for.

I climbed Devils Peak with my friend from Berkeley Troy Hodges this past week as well. 1000 meters high and the second highest mountain here in Cape Town, second only to Table Mountain which I plan to do this week. It was a very strenuous hike but me and Troy busted it out without a guide and in only four and a half hours. About and hour and a half less than the six hours we were told it was gonna take to do the whole hike. On the way up we saw the Queens and Kings Blockhouses that were built when Cape Town was colonized hundreds of years ago in the 1600’s. They are two of the oldest building in Cape Town. The Devils Peak hike was definitely another great adrenaline rush, especially when you’re getting hit by the 50 mile an hour winds that howl at the top as you overlook all of Cape Town.

One thing I’ve enjoyed doing lately is enjoying some solo time to do a little exploring on my own. For instance the other day after class I went to Downtown to buy a book called Dark Star Safari, by Paul Theroux (described by my neighbor Al in Auburn as Into the Wild x 10 in Africa from Cairo to Cape Town). I went alone and spent the entire day just walking around in local markets, people watching, and soaking up the local culture without the distraction of being with other people who might want to do certain things that I wouldn’t. Just walking around wherever the wind blew me. This was one of my favorite experiences in Cape Town so far. Met a lot of cool people and saw a lot of interesting things including a guy making tips by entertaining people with animal noises. He was extremely talented actually. It was hysterical watching him scare the shit out of un-suspecting tourists walking down the street by grabbing their back leg as they walked past and making a screeching barking sound. He was getting so many people so good and even got me when I walked by. People everywhere were watching him and laughing their asses off. And so was he. Funny as hell. This day I discovered my new favorite beer out here. Its called Jack Black. And it’s a delicious lager brewed right here in South Africa. Apparently its very well known but I hadn’t heard of it until this day. I also went by myself to Muizenberg Beach this week one day after class and taught myself how to surf. I only got up a couple of times, but I had a blast (except for the couple times I was puking up salt water I swallowed) and am definitely gonna give it another go. I’ve learned a lot about my adventurous spirit since I’ve been out here, especially when I take some alone time for myself, which is hard for me to do often because I’m naturally a very social person. Thankfully I’ve had the motivation to go running regularly around my neighborhood which also offers some needed reflection on my time here as well as some solid cardio to burn off all this good food and drink I’m getting here.

Once again, thank you  so much mom and dad for all you have done for me. I promise I am being safe and am having the greatest time of my life out here. I don’t know if there’s ever been a period of time in my life where I have been so happy. Miss and love you all! Peace, Love and Music!

Cape Town: Week 1

Hey everybody! My first ever blog post! Thought this would be the best way to let you all know how everything's going over here in South Africa. Just know this is gonna be extremely long. So here goes!

First off. Huge thanks to the sweet little old Ida Cooper who has set us internationals up here in Africa. Bless her heart without her this experience would not be possible. She has done an absolutely marvelous job at orienting us to our surroundings and even more importantly each other. 

As soon as I landed in SA 14 other international students and I were picked up by a group of vibrant UCT students who work for her who took us to our temporary residence where we stayed for the first two days until we moved into our permanent residences. There I was able to meet easily over a hundred other internationals and finally start building my new network. As well as start working on my tan at the pool. My current house is a massive two unit complex that houses 24 students. 12 internationals and 12 UCT rugby players who I will get to later in the post. In my unit there are 8 Americans 2 Germans and 2 Norwegians. I am one of 3 guys. 

Now the other unit is the rugby crew and holy shit these guys are what I would call a hoot. First night I met them they promptly asked, "Hey Bru! You keen from a braai (or bbq) and some brews?!" To which I responded "hell yes!" but I was unsure of how were gonna get beers because in SA liquor stores have to stop selling at 8pm on weekdays and 5pm on weekends. Crazy I know. But one of the guys says in a sly little tone, "Oh don't you worry we're gonna  get some." There was no way I was gonna let these guys go get the drink alone seeing as I knew it should be quite an experience finding what the South African's would call a dodgy little liquor store. So I hopped in the car and went with. Needless to say we got the beers and I got my first little taste of what Cape Town looks like behind the shiny veneers of the posh neighborhoods surrounding UCT. But don't worry mom and pops, I was with some big ass dudes and we were perfectly fine. Lol. Trust me I won't go back without them. Anyway, after this awesome braai filled with scandalous drinking games and delicious meat I was given a proper welcome to the South African night club scene. I was the only one in my unit who was up for a night of clubbing but I figured what the hell its my first night with these guys. So we taxied to Claremont, a nearby neighborhood filled with nightclubs like Tantra, Tin Roof, and Tiger Tiger. I soon found out why people say the rugby team are a bunch of celebrities around here, because I swear everywhere we went it seemed like they knew everybody. One of the guys Hilton was even able to talk the bouncer at Tiger Tiger to let me in with only my T-shirt on which is as far as I have heard strictly forbidden. It was hilarious. One quick exchange and the next thing I knew the bouncer was smiling at me and ushering me in. It seems that this rugby team has inadvertently up my social standing like ten-fold. Its real nice. Didn't get back until like 5am that night. And when I did I gave some of the guys some Oh Boy Oberto beef jerky that they were blown away by! I thought this was hilarious because I'm pretty sure Oberto is some of the more sub par jerky I've had. But they couldn't get enough of it. So mom and pops if you ever send a care package make sure and fill it with tasty Oh Boy Oberto! 

The next day 15 massive buses took hundreds of us exchange students on the most beautiful drive I've ever been on down the coast to the Cape of Good Hope. It was at least a two hour drive. We stopped off in Simon's Town to see a beach that was taken over by cute little African Penguins. These little guys were very interesting. They hardly moved at all. Just stood there awkwardly, perfectly still, and stared at us jabbering kids. Now I'm not entirely sure but I think they like to stay on or close to the beach because the water surrounding this area contains over 50% of the entire great white shark population in the world. After this we were taken to what I believe was the highlight of the day. A local township called Ocean View. Townships came about in Cape Town at the onset of the Apartheid era. When the countries predominantly white government deemed many areas white only. What I found out was that the stunningly beautiful beach community called Simon's Town we had just seen was at one point inhabited by native South Africans, most of whom were black. At the end of the 19th century they were evicted from there homes that they had had for generations and forcibly placed in locals townships, or Cape Flats. Called flats because they area is literally just sprawling flat land. Nothing like the unbelievable terrain we saw by the ocean. These townships are a stunning reminder of just how wide the gap between the rich and the poor is in this wonderful country. In Ocean View we went to the town hall where we were treated by the talent show put on by local kids who wanted to show off their many talents. My favorite acts were a crew of bad ass break dancers unlike any I've ever seen and I young little guy who gave us a tribute to Michael Jackson. This kids could have easily been a better dancer than MJ himself. So amazing. I got videos of it all so I'll put a couple on FB when I get better internet. After Ocean View we went to the Cape of Good Hope which is almost at the southern most tip of Africa. It is commonly mistaken as the southern most point of Africa but it isn't, people just think it is because I swear to god its the most beautiful place I've ever seen. Saw multiple baboons just walking around on the drive through Table Mountain National Park going to the point. Pretty crazy red ass baboons. This day was one of the most incredibly days I've ever had. I did well to get as many phone numbers and meet as many new friends as I could along the way. Which in Africa seems astonishingly easy. Everyone is so kind. 

Now to change gears a little. There are not very many beer selections here in SA. But I have found my favorite cheap beer (15 Rand a quart, or the equivalent of less than 2 dollars). It is called Black Label. And its far better than the piss water Bud and Keystone Light we drink back in the states. I also like the Castle Milk Stout. Very good. Most bars usually only have about 5 different beers. But I have been with the crew to a local bar/restaurant called BananaJam in Kenilworth that thank the lord had an excellent IPA. Can't tell you how happy I was to find this place. As for the cuisine in the Rainbow Nation. I have never been to as many amazing restaurants in one week as I have this week. And the best part of it all is that for the equivalent of like 20 US dollars you can have a full meal and at least three or four drinks. Pretty insane. Some places are a little pricier but most are relatively cheap. To end my day yesterday for example I went to a bar called the Brass Bell right down the train tracks from Muzenberg Beach where we frolicked about yesterday. At this bar me and some new friends each had two shooters, one called Watermelon Kiss and the other called Surfer on Acid, I also had two Castle Milk Stouts, and I shared I bomb diggity pizza and after it all I only spent like 120R, or fifteen dollars. I'm tellin ya, It’s ridiculous here. There are at least 5 or 6 different neighborhoods/ districts surrounding my neighborhood in Rondebosh and each one has plenty of different spots to check out. So there seems to always be something new to see whenever we all go out. A little side note. The train rides here couldn't be more interesting. First time we went to the beach we rode on the "first class" metro rail plus and while sitting on the train a full band of guys jumped on the train with guitars, drums, and a banjo a proceeded to sing us all songs. My favorite was "Welcome to Cape Town!" Got a video of this too! Now on the train ride back we had to get on the regular metro rail, which was f@#%ing packed shoulder to shoulder with all kinds of people. So full that I was forced out at one stop and had to quickly jump back on before the train kept going. To my surprise, a younger looking dude taps me on the shoulder and says "What's your name?" I responded. Than in his thick accent he goes "Patrick. Meet So and So" and introduces me to this random girl standing across from me. He says "You talk now!" I laughed hysterically, humored him and proceeded to talk with a nice native Cape Townian girl. This guy was so funny. Playing metro rail match maker. Lol.

There are probably like ten other international houses within walking distance to my House at 9 Lyle Road which is so cool, because once you meet one person at one house you eventually pretty much meet everyone else. I have made especially good friends in two houses, one called Lovers Walk and the other Charlton House. I have spent a significant amount of time with people in these two houses and in my house. And thankfully I've met so many wonderful kids who have been our Orientation Leaders/ house moms and dads (just call them that because they are here to help us with anything we need). My favorites so far are cool young guy named Fabio from Mozambique, another guy Collin who's originally from Cape Town, and of course sweet little Anne (my house mom) who is from Kenya! After spending the day in downtown on Long Street, probably the most famous  and culturally rich street in Cape Town abounding with innumerable restaurants, bars, and street vendors, Fabio met me, some house mates, and a bunch of the Lovers Walk crew at the top of Signal Hill. Where we drank wine, puffed hookah tobacoo, played ukuleles, guitar, and drums while singing songs, and watching the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean. When I thought about my upcoming experiences in Cape Town back in Cali, this is exactly what I pictured. It was so perfect. 

I'm living like five minutes walk from campus which reminds me a lot of Berkeley, except way more hilly. Probably the best part of where I live is that everyday I walk out of my house I am greeted by one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. Table Mountain. If you have never seen it or do not know what I'm talking about look up a picture of it. It's a sprawling table top looking mountain that is unlike anything I've ever seen. When the clouds and fog roll in at the end of each day they appear to rest right on top of the mountain and the locals say its Table Mountain's table cloth. Yea Table Mountain is amazing and I believe it was just voted the 8th natural wonder of the world. I will be climbing it soon. The other day I met an interesting kid named Gabriel from Namibia who is studying Financial Analysis at UCT right now. Had a beer and chatted with him for an hour or so and he said he's keen to take me and anyone else who wants to go up the mountain whenever we want. Apparently he's climbed it a number of times and says the view from the top is stunning.

There all a lot of things I have to get used to about Cape Town that are far different than California. For one everything is pay as you go as far as phone and internet is concerned. Which sucks because being the social butterfly that I am I find that I quickly burn through much of my airtime extremely quickly, so I have to do well to be quick and to the point while talking on the phone and in texts I have to put as much information as possible which is troublesome because the Vodacom phone that I have uses the ancient texting method with 3 and 4 letter on each number and I can’t change it to T9, which makes the words for you, because its such a cheap phone. However, it is a nice change to not constantly be fiddling around on my Iphone. I’m currently in the process of picking up some of the local lingo. There is a lot of it. But definitely the most common phrase you hear is “Howzit!” You need not reply to “Howzit” even though it sounds like people are asking “how is it?” It’s just a South African’s way of saying “Yo!” or “Whaddup!”  It’s quite endearing. I also have to get used to looking right first before I cross the street because in SA like many parts of the world cars drive on the left side of the road. Not gonna lie, my house mom Anne probably saved my life at least twice. But I’m getting better at it.Walking down Main Road, the main thoroughfare connected to my street, I constantly hear what are called mini taxis. Basically they are like VW buses that most everyone uses as a taxi during the day. They only cost like 6 or 7 Rand to use, so less than a dollar but it isn’t uncommon to find yourself crammed into to the bus with 15 other people. And probably the funniest thing about these taxis are the guys who drive them. Going up and down the road you continuously hear the horns and whistles, as well as the screams of the destination to which they are going from of the two man crews operating each taxi. These mini taxis are nothing like US taxis. You never have to halt them because half the time they’re screaming and hollering at you to hop in and catch a ride. Needless to say these Afrikaans speaking taxi operators are more often than not some major characters. They are so fired up to take pictures with us too!

I will soon have to figure out what other things I’m gonna do other than just going to the beach, going out what seems like every night, and going to school. There are so many amazing places to travel to around Cape Town like the Garden route to the East, or Kruger National Park, home to the Big Five. Elephants, Rhinos, Buffalo, Lions, and Leopards. But it also has a number of other animals to see like giraffes, zebras, monkeys, and crocs! I definitely wanna travel up into other countries in Southern Africa as well. My goal would be to travel up through Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, and if I would be so blessed Tanzania to hike up Kilimanjaro. But that might be a stretch. Being an adrenaline junky I fully intend to bungee jump off of Victoria Falls and white water raft the daunting Zambezi River. And there’s no way I’m gonna live here for six months without learning how to surf. Most likely I will join the surfing club. I also gotta go to Stellenbosch, about 45 minutes away, to see the Cheetah Outreach center. My neighbor Cindy worked there for six months a few years ago and has put me in contact with some of her friends who run the place. I can’t wait to go play with the cheetahs!

One of the things I’m most excited to do is join a student group called SHAWCO. SHAWCO students take buses twice a week to local townships to help to help in the effort of strengthening the floundering educational system hear in South Africa. SHAWCO is an ongoing effort and in no way do I think that my presence will bring about some miraculous changes but I feel that it is extremely important to use my time here in SA for more than just partying. Jonathan Hoffenberg, the gentlemen responsible for starting the program has told us over time it all adds up and SHAWCO’s impact is vitally important. I can’t tell you how excited I am to go to these neighborhoods and try in some way to give back the love I have received throughout my life. I am sure it will be an excellent learning experience and I can’t wait to go learn and play with all the little kids!   

The women I’m currently surrounded by in Cape Town are the sexiest, most smoking hot, insanely beautiful women I have ever seen in my entire life. I’m meeting as many as I possibly can. That’s all I have to say about that.       

Last Wednesday we were all treated to a heart pounding African drum workshop on the steps of Middle Campus. 2 native Cape Townian men and Two Congolese men taught all of us internationals a little something about African drums. I tried my best to keep up with all the different beats but these guy s were too nice at playing the drums. It was ridiculously exhilarating to hear the sound of 300 drums pounding all around me. Couldn’t stop smiling the whole time. In fact I don’t think I’ve stopped smiling the entire time I’ve been here.  

I am so incredibly lucky I am to have such an amazing group of family and friends back at home who have played such an integral role in shaping me into the man I am becoming. But most importantly, I have the greatest two parents any kid could ever ask for. They have sacrificed so much, and loved me with all of their hearts since the day I was born and there is no way any of this would be possible without them. To Chuck and Debbie Williams, I love you with all of my heart and can’t wait to show the love you surrounded me with growing up to every person I meet while over here in Africa.

Anyway, that’s about all for now. I hope you enjoy hearing about my experiences and can’t wait to tell you more. I can’t wait to keep the good times rolling and keep meeting new people. I think this next week I’m heading to the Ocean to go swim around with some Great White Sharks. I hear they love posing for pictures.